The Japanese outfit Workers is known for producing some of the ultimate reproduction of classic American work wear. The company came to my attention last year and I have been keeping an eye on it ever since. Recently, that voyeurism became much easier with the launch of the Workers blog. While I can’t read Japanese (and don’t bother translating it), I do like to follow the links and it is a good place to get a better look at the Workers goods. It is sort of like Free & Easy, but I don’t have to trek all the way up to Kinokuniya to get a copy.

Another recent discovery (and something that is linked on the Workers blog)  is the old-timey obsessed site Your Old Pal Jim. I had a chance to meet the man behind the blog, Mr. Jim Christensen at The Pop Up Flea and was impressed with his encyclopedic knowledge of all things work wear, denim, garment making and seemingly everything in between. I was really impressed with Jim’s level of interest in this sort of thing and humbled by his command of the topic.

Men cutting fabric at a Manhattan factory from Your Old Pal Jim.

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The gents at Freeman Transport have just launched their newest bicycle and this time it’s an easy to ride commuter called the Gravel Racer. The story goes that Freeman Transport co-founder Nathaniel Freeman’s “great-great-grandfather was an inventor during the Industrial Revolution. His contributions were many but perhaps his most controversial are the sites for the Colt .45. In his honor we’ve built a bicycle with a finish similar to that gun, richly patinaed with gun bluing and ferric browns, sealed with tree wax and ready to age. It comes with or without couplings, stainless steel lugged rack, chain guard and fenders, and can be built fixed or coaster braked and is perfect for commuting or general transport.”

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There was a little gem in the back (front?) of the new issue of Free & Easy, Cramp leather goods. (That link worked last night but not today — fyi.) Cool stuff,  strange name. Lately Free & Easy seemed to be getting more bizarre by the minute, making you feel like you had taken acid and were mowing a lawn of dandelions on a John Deere tractor. Luckily the good folks who put out my favorite non-English magazine were able to shake off the psychedelic haze for the May home issue. The Cramp canvas and leather shoulder bag, plus the other items pictured below, are some great looking accessories. Definitely something I need to keep an eye out for on my next trip to Japan.

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From the Desk of… is a window into the world and workspace of some of ACL’s most stylish friends.

Graphic designer, hardcore music lover and American patriot, the stylish Mr. Jeremy Dean graciously agreed to allow our prying eyes on his desk at Urban Outfitters. Mr. Dean has been a long time ACL reader and was the impetus behind my recent field trip to Philadelphia. He, along with the other gentlemen on the men’s team, have really impressed me with the direction they are taking the store. Okay, enough chit chat. Take a few minutes and poke through Jeremy’s desk, I’m sure he won’t mind.

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An ACL reader and frequent tipster sent in a suggestion for The American List that I thought deserved a little more attention than a simple listing. Greenville, South Carolina based Shuron Ltd, is an eye wear manufacturer that has been turning out frames since the time of the Civil War. The company is most well known for their sixties style frames, but Shuron is also famous for being a sunglasses supplier for the U.S. military in WWII. These iconic sunglasses — now called the “MacArthur” after the famous Army General Douglas MacArthur — are still offered today. (Thanks to Michael for the tip)

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The August, 2007 issue of Free & Easy includes one of my all time favorite articles from the Japanese publication, a buyers guide for dogs. I can see someone like New York Magazine doing this sort of feature (actually my pal Rosecrans wrote a much more logical piece on the topic in 2007), but not with the endearing absurdity that only Free & Easy can produce. After seeing this issue it became clear to me that the magazine is just a guide-book to living like an American. That was also the same day that Free & Easy — with all its quirkiness — became my all time favorite magazine, after Vitals of course.

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My trip to Japan wasn’t really a sightseeing holiday, I was actually sent to Tokyo on a covert American rescue mission. I went in search of American goods that wanted to be returned to their rightful home, back to the motherland. The greatest find was a vintage red Woolrich hunting jacket that was “saved” from Free & Easy’s Rugged Museum. The Rugged Museum store by the way, is excellent. In addition to stocking some awesome brands Post O’ Alls, 68 & Brothers, Mister Freedom, Buzz Rickson, etc., the shop had an AMAZING selection of vintage goods. Chore coats, flannel shirts, vintage chambray. My head was spinning. In the end settled on this vintage Woolrich jacket that fit like a glove and was a bargain at ¥13,780 or $152.71.

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A few months ago I dedicated a week’s worth of coverage to “The NAVY-ism” issue of the ingenious Japanese magazine Free & Easy. Along the way (and with help from a friend in LA) I discovered Mister Freedom. The vintage military inspired collection is the brainchild of designer Christophe Loiron, who is clearly operating on a higher level. In addition to designing and manufacturing a line of Navy inspired men’s clothing, Mister Freedom is also a well edited vintage military clothing store. The premise behind the brand is to create “historically plausible clothing”, which basically means that the items in the Mister Freedom collection might not have been documented exactly as such, but the details and elements that make up the garments are things that historically existed during the era. The attention to detail, from the hardware to the fabrics, is on a level that I have never seen. In a word, amazing!

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The Japanese book store receives magazines in two types of shipments, one by air mail (or via All Nippon or whatever) and one by “sea” as they say at the store. Well it seems I might have sparked some interest in Free & Easy, because the first three times I went to pick up the new issue, it was sold out. Not until the “sea” shipment arrived did I get my hands on “Cadet Style” in all its glory.

The issue is no where near as pleasing as The Navy-ism, which mesmerized me so much I was forced to devour it in a series of five posts, but Free & Easy still reigns supreme as my favorite magazine that is written in a language I cannot read or understand.

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Number four of a five part series.

Between Free & Easy and the Rusty Knot, nautical seems to have taken over my world. As I browsed The Navy-ism, I came to the realization that the entire issue seems to have been inspired by the 1966 Steve McQueen movie The Sand Pebbles. I think it is fairly common knowledge that the Japanese are obsessed with McQueen. Case in point, the craziest film devoted website (which has to be run by a Japanese guy) that I have ever seen. So I suppose his inclusion in the issue makes perfect sense. One of the still life pages of Free & Easy has a picture of McQueen in a CPO (Chief Petty Officer) shirt with a selection of other vintage shirts and their detailing. The CPO shirts are classic and more stylish than ever. I’m sure Double RL makes them or you can buy the authentic version. If you go the Army Navy route, you might need to have the shirt altered as they can be quite boxy in shape.

Mr. Steve McQueen in The Sand Pebbles.

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Number three of a five part series.

My obsession with the April issue of Free & Easy rolls on with the awesomeness that is the accessory still life pages. The nautical theme continues through the world of belts, Zippos, ID bracelets, padlocks, hats and shoes. The pages are a buyers guide to all things Navy and a road map to what to look for this May at Brimfield.

Below: Navy inspired goodness.

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Number two of a five part series.

One of my most treasured possessions is my father’s U.S. Navy issue pea coat, which was given to me while I was in college. My family’s military service has historically been in the Navy. My paternal grandfather served on the destroyer USS Murphy during the Second World War. In the late 1960s and early 1970s, my father was a submariner on the USS Robert E. Lee. The boat’s crew would divide their time between the Naval Submarine Base in New London, Connecticut and Holy Loch, Scotland. The heavy wool coat must have been great to have during those bitter cold winters. Over the past decade I have continued to use it to fight off the cold New York City winters.

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